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The World Cup no longer serves as a reference of football's top quality or of cutting edge tactical ideas. It has lost that position to European club football, which also hands over the players to national teams in a state of near exhaustion after a gruelling club season. In some ways, then, the World Cup is not what it was. But in one way it is better than ever. More people from more countries are now able to travel to support that team. It is this meeting of the world, this congregation of people from every continent in one place that provides the magic of the occasion. And this year, plenty of this magic is coming from Peru. This is the first World Cup since 1982 in which that fabulous white shirt with the red sash has been represented. That tournament, in Spain, was one of the classic World Cups. But the Peruvians in the stands were either the wealthy, or those who were already based in Europe. This time it is different. One of the best businesses on the planet to be in over the last few months is that of travel agent in Peru. World Cup fever has gripped the nation. Fights broke out in Lima shops over a lack of Panini stickers; the company underestimated the demand, not realising that after a drought of 36 years, so many people wanted to feel part of the event. And many of those wanted to be there in Russia. This is not a cheap undertaking. The most economic package to take in one match has been selling for around $6000 -- about 10 times the average monthly salary. The flights alone cost over $2000. Rather like the Argentines and Chileans who went to Brazil 2014 in beaten up old cars which also served as mobile homes, plenty of Peruvians have been prepared to rough it, cutting down costs to the minimum in order to soak up the experience. The ranks have been swelled by some extraordinary tales -- such as the fan alleged to have piled on an extra 24 KG to qualify for an obese seat. Last Saturday the Peruvians invaded Saransk, the smallest of the World Cup venues, which surely had never before to compare with the joyous invasion of the South Americans. Lots will be limping home to Peru at the end of it all with stories to last a lifetime -- as well as debts that could take as long to pay off. Of the 31 countries visiting Russia for the World Cup, the FIFA statistics show that only six (including the United States, who did not qualify, but contain many Latin Americans) bought more tickets, with over 43,000 going to Peruvians. They have taken considerably more fans than England, and more than any European country with the exception of Germany. These numbers highlight the importance of the World Cup to South America -- and to Mexico -- and how, despite recent economic setbacks, more people from these countries can afford to make the trip. For the countries of the south cone -- Uruguay, Argentina and especially Brazil -- the World Cup is an event that parades their nation in front of the entire planet as winners, and is a vital part of self-esteem. Higher up the continent, the Peruvians do not have the same pretensions. Although enthusiasm surged through the team's pre-tournament run of 15 games unbeaten, no sane Peruvian travelled to Russia with realistic hopes of coming back with the trophy. For them the World Cup is an opportunity to give proof of their nation and its place on the map. They are shouting out to all and sundry a message of "Hey, we exist!" And the 2018 World Cup is very glad of their existence. In their spirit and their songs they represent the side of the World Cup that the club game is unable to match -- its power to make people feel represented, to bring people together, to serve as a kind of United Nations of the common man and woman.
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